Sumba: A Life-Changing Journey
by Layla Khazeni, young traveler, student at the University of Chicago, and volunteer at the Sumba Foundation
First English class
As globetrotters, many of us are well-acquainted with life-changing journeys. The long history of documented travelogues, intertwined with revelations abroad and personal growth stimulated by foreign intervention or inspiration, is familiar to those of us who voyage beyond our own country’s borders seeking pleasures, adventures, and new connections. Since my childhood, and as ever-persistent now, I have been fascinated by places I have not been: the depths of the sea, the far reaches of space, and the remote archipelagos whose isolation from modern industrial systems has preserved biodiversity beyond imagination. My inner enthusiast for the unknown is somewhat insatiable, and part of me believed I’d always be seeking a new destination for travel—until I traveled to Sumba with my family in 2018, an island in Indonesia where infinite possibility met a sense of belonging and purpose in community.
My brother, Aiden Khazeni, surfing God’s Left at Nihi Sumba. Photographed by Jason Childs, 2018
My father, a diligent professor and dedicated surfer, became enamored with Nihiwatu (now known as Nihi Sumba) after finding online footage of its legendary wave, God’s Left. He has been taking my brother and me into the sea for as long as I can remember, stepping over stingrays and barnacles to help us catch the wave of the day, as many days as we could. When we got older, and as his research on the Indian Ocean carried us deeper into the diverse cultures of Southeast Asia, he began seeking surf breaks where we could expand our vision of the world and catch a ride while doing so. As a high school student interested in marine biology and biomedical research, even when I began to surf less, I was always eager not only to be near the ocean but to learn from it. When I learned that Nihi was connected to the Sumba Foundation, a multifaceted non-profit seeking to preserve Sumbanese culture while improving their quality of life by addressing public health concerns, I couldn’t wait to travel to this distant destination and be part of something larger than myself. My school prioritized community service as a necessary component of adolescent development, so I had some experience in the collaborative act of giving back, but never had I gotten the opportunity to engage in a cause so authentic to my interests, and personally rewarding. What truly characterizes the Sumba Foundation and sets it apart from other philanthropic opportunities, however, are the mission-driven humanitarian ethics and personalities of the people who cooperate within it.
Sity Vesla serving egg curry and vegetables for school lunch as part of the nutrition program.
In an era of globalization, awareness of cultural dynamics is more important than ever. At first, I was dubious of my ability to make a lasting contribution—I had no knowledge of the language, little experience in a lab setting, and felt generally inept at managing large groups of children. Moreover, the traditions of the Sumbanese were fascinating, but, I felt outstandingly foreign as I tried to pronounce village names and remember spiritual customs. Luckily, I felt completely at home within a week of volunteering with the foundation. This is not only because of the welcoming environment sustained by the staff at Nihi, but the hospitality and generosity of the island at large. I followed Rainy Octora, nutrition director, to the school lunches, where we were met with grateful smiles from ear to ear over steaming containers of egg curry and mung bean soup. Later in the week, I watched the star teacher Asti Kulla in action, leading students of all ages in bilingual songs at a beach location in Kerrewe. As we drove back towards the other side of the island, the children who had walked miles to attend the voluntary class chased after our truck, waving goodbye and vocally expressing their eagerness for the next lesson.
On the beach in Nihiwatu with my father, Arash Khazeni
After 10 days on the island, there was no doubt in my mind that I wanted to return. I wasn’t sure what my role would be specifically. Still open to being offered an internship for the following summer, I knew my life’s trajectory had changed forever. I had never been happier than I was on that island, with those students and instructors, far away from everything else that had defined me. The opportunities for mutual growth had just begun, and so had my partnership with the Sumba Foundation.
As much as I enjoyed travelling to different villages, of course, some of the most amazing experiences were those I shared with my family and friends at the hotel. Whether it was a long day at the boathouse spent sharing laughs with windsurfing and fishing expert Astika Oye, or the hike to a spa through rice paddies with my mom and Tiger, the internal and external excursions offered at Nihiwatu are ones I won’t soon forget.
This trip was the beginning of a longstanding relationship with Nihi, the Sumba Foundation, and the employees who make it so incredibly special. When I came back alone as a volunteer intern, my experience was even more formative. As a representative of the organization, I felt incredibly lucky to meet with and learn from patrons and partners at the weekly events. This was also when I had the opportunity to work with the malaria clinic to test, diagnose, and treat patients; in addition to the English classes and school lunches, we travelled to remote villages without accessible clinics to perform on-site testing procedures and distribute insecticide-treated bed nets. Practices like these, which the Sumba Foundation has been cultivating since 2003, have already had a drastic impact on infection prevalence; the original village surveys charted malaria positivity rates at 62% for children under 5 years of age, at a serious detriment to their development, and 30% of the total population. In their primary intervention area, these rates have been reduced by 93%; island-wide, these numbers were decreased by 60%. With every passing year, the Sumba Foundation is expanding its program to increase outreach to these areas and implement human-centered interventions to combat vector-borne, seasonal diseases, especially in rural areas with a high incidence of malaria.
Since this hands-on experience learning from and working with the malaria program on Sumba, my biomedical interests have shifted entirely to prioritize ethnographically-informed global health initiatives, with a specific focus on neglected tropical disease. I know that with more awareness and empathy for these ailments, generated by research initiatives such as those led by the Sumba Foundation, sustainable changes will come. Education and clinical development go hand-in-hand, and every contribution counts toward a child being cared for.
My mother, father, brother, and I returned the following year and were received with open arms by our new friends and found family. With every trip to Nihi, we have discovered a strengthened sense of belonging and compounded motivation to reciprocate the love and respect offered to us. In 2019, my dad and I co-taught classes on Indonesian geography, local marine life, and the English language. In all my years of witnessing his teaching and interacting with students, I have never seen my father smile quite so brightly.
The Sumba Foundation and Nihiwatu are incredible examples of the benefits of a symbiotic relationship between non-profit and for-profit systems which rely on and support locals, guests, and owners alike. I am incredibly proud to have worked with them, look forward to future opportunities alongside them, and am so grateful for this platform to share my story.