A Luxury Retreat in Northern Italy: Lake Garda & The Dolomites
by André Koester, Luxury Travel Advisor
Updated in March 2025
Every July, my husband and I take a week-long trip alone—a much-needed retreat, given that we have four young sons. This year, we set out to explore two breathtaking regions of Northern Italy that had long been on our list: Lake Garda and the Dolomite Mountains.
A Grand Arrival: Verona & Opera Under the Stars
Our journey began at Lake Garda, but before heading to the lake, we made a stop in Verona—the halfway point between Venice and our final destination.
With its medieval charm, winding streets, and striking architecture, Verona captivated us immediately. The highlight of our visit was experiencing the opera Carmen under the stars in the city’s grand Roman arena—a truly magical evening and an unforgettable way to begin our trip.
Lake Garda: A Serene Escape at Villa Feltrinelli
Often overshadowed by the more famous Lake Como, Lake Garda offers an equally stunning yet less-touristed escape. We chose to stay at Villa Feltrinelli, a luxurious 20-room lakeside retreat known for its:
Impeccable service
Beautiful pool & serene spa
Bespoke hospitality, where by our second morning, the staff knew our exact coffee orders and evening cocktail preferences
Though Villa Feltrinelli was a paradise in itself, we ventured out to explore the lake’s charming towns. Instead of driving, we opted to charter a boat, which allowed us to:
Visit Salo, known for its elegant boutiques
Explore Sirmione, home to striking Roman ruins
Stop at Isola di Garda, a private island boasting a magnificent palazzo
Dock at waterfront restaurants for an alfresco seafood lunch
Swim in the crystal-clear waters, jumping off the boat at every opportunity
The Dolomites: Alpine Adventure in San Cassiano
Next on our itinerary was San Cassiano in the Dolomites, about a 90-minute drive north.
The Dolomites are among the most dramatic mountain ranges in the world, making them an incredible year-round destination. While I wouldn’t have considered myself particularly outdoorsy before this trip, I was immediately taken by the region’s breathtaking beauty and endless activities.
Mornings were spent hiking through stunning alpine landscapes, with panoramic vistas at every turn. One of the unique aspects of hiking here is the rifugios—cozy mountain inns serving delicious food and wine, perfect for a well-earned lunch. If we weren’t in the mood for a strenuous trek, we simply took a cable car or chairlift up the mountain and hiked down at a more leisurely pace.
One of the most fascinating experiences was exploring the World War I tunnels built into the mountains. This region was a significant battleground between the Italians and Austrians, and some tunnels stretch nearly a kilometer long.
With the help of a knowledgeable hiking guide, we discovered the most scenic trails and learned about the area’s history. He encouraged us to try via ferrata—a form of climbing that involves clipping into fixed steel cables and ladders to traverse dramatic cliffs—but we decided to save that adventure for a future trip with our sons. Apparently, families flock to the Dolomites for this exhilarating activity, and it’s a favorite among children and teens.
Luxury Dining & Cozy Alpine Charm at Rosa Alpina
Dinners in San Cassiano were just as exceptional as our mountain lunches, as the region is home to numerous Michelin-starred restaurants. Our hotel, Rosa Alpina (reopening as Aman in 2025), perfectly balanced cozy alpine charm with refined elegance and was a highlight of our stay.
A Farewell Drive Through Northern Italy
After a memorable week, we made the scenic 2.5-hour drive back to the Venice airport for our direct flight home to New York.
Both Lake Garda and the Dolomites exceeded our expectations, and we left promising to return—a true sign of a perfect trip.