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The Road Less Traveled: Two Weeks Driving through the Balkans

by Sandi Todorovich, Luxury Travel Advisor

The Balkan countries had been on my travel list for so long now. My interest was peaked after visiting Croatia multiple times and sneaking in a long weekend in Bosnia and Herzegovina in 2014, right before I moved back to the States. I was ecstatic when one of my girlfriends told me she wanted to explore the Balkan Peninsula. In no time at all, we devised a route taking in seven countries over 2 weeks, starting in Montenegro and ending in Serbia. The trip was amazing – it far exceeded my expectations and I was blown away with the beauty and ease of navigating this slightly less traveled part of Europe. We ate local food, drank local beer and wine in each country, and were pleasantly surprised at how little everything cost. These countries are a mix of histories, religions and governments, yet they are each unique and individually offer a backdrop for great touring.

Here are some of my highlights in each country:

Montenegro
Montenegro is a beautiful gem on the Adriatic Sea. Less popular than neighboring Croatia, Montenegro has picture perfect-vistas and a beautiful coastline throughout the country. Spend some time in Perast, the small town on the bay of Kotor amidst a background of dramatic mountain scenery. Take a short boat ride to Our Lady of the Rocks church, located on a tiny island in the middle of the bay, and take in the stunning views of the town from the water.
Just 30 minutes away from Perast is the walled town of Kotor. The ascent is very steep, make sure to allow time to walk up the walls, which scramble in a zigzag line up the mountain behind it for stunning views over the orange rooftops of Kotor and out onto the Bay.
Lastly, make your way to Budva and then on to the private island of Sveti Stefan, and spend a heavenly night in one of the only luxury hotels in the area – the Aman Sveti Stefan.

Albania
What started with a very long border cross into northern Albania was quickly forgotten with surprisingly pretty and mountainous views on our drive. Although we didn’t get to make it to the beaches in the south for which Albania is known, we still enjoyed the country. Bicyclists and horse-drawn carts abound in the small towns, and there were drastic landscape changes throughout. We visited Shkoder, Kruja, and then ended with great dining and nightlife in Tirana. Believe it or not, we had pretty good Albanian wine and rakija while we were here!

Macedonia
A country full of churches, extremely friendly and helpful people, really good wine, and some of the saltiest food I’ve ever had in my life! Lake Ohrid is one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes offering visitors countless beautiful churches and magical ruins.

Kosovo
The newest country in Europe, Kosovo gained independence from Serbia in 2008. The landscape is really quite beautiful – mountain passes with views for days and snow-capped mountains rising up from beautiful lush green countryside. We stayed in Prizren, a pretty city full of mosques and monasteries and surrounded by the Sharr mountains. A hike up to the top of the fortress in the morning allowed for sweeping views of the town and countryside below. While we quickly forgot the gastronomy offered in Kosovo, the memories of its mystical scenery will last a lifetime.

Bulgaria
Bulgaria was another wonderful surprise, with gorgeous monasteries, hidden gem towns, beautiful driving landscapes - both mountainous views and idyllic country lanes, and delicious wine. Rila Monastery, set up high in the mountains, was absolutely stunning and took my breath away. We visited the historic town of Koprivshtitsa, and enjoyed a surprisingly upscale traditional Bulgarian dinner in Sofia. We did a wine tasting at a vineyard in the countryside, and wandered through the cobbled streets of historic Veliko Tarnovo on our last day, taking in the gorgeous mountainous views from the top of the fortress. Definitely one of my favorite countries we visited; Bulgaria holds a special place in my heart.

Romania
Romania has drastically changing landscapes, with the Transylvania region being the most scenic. This region is full of castles as well as picturesque towns with cobblestone streets and colorful buildings through the many squares and winding streets. We visited the obligatory tourist traps of Bran Castle and Peles Castle, but the highlights were the lesser known towns of Brasov, Sibiu, Sighisoara, and Timisoara. Romanian is one of the wine producing countries in the world.

Serbia
Last but not least, we visited Serbia, our seventh and final country on this trip, and the origin of my last name. Belgrade is a large and lively city – albeit a bit gritty. We found it full of friendly people and endless outdoor cafés and pedways. This is the place for dining and nightlife in the Balkans – but keep in mind, smoking is quite common and allowed in restaurants as well. Don’t forget to visit cobblestone-lined Skadarlija Street, the charming old Bohemian Quarter full of outside cafés.